sudo apt-get install php5-cgi
Edit php.ini file
sudo nano /etc/php5/cgi/php.ini
Scroll the bottom and add
cgi.fix_pathinfo = 1
save and exit
Enable fast CGI
sudo lighty-enable-mod fastcgi-php
sudo /etc/init.d/lighttpd restart
Create phpinfo page
sudo nano /var/www/phpinfo.php
and add the following
Save and exit
Enter Pi ip addres into a browser followed by phpinfo.php
Install MySQL and PHPMYADMIN
sudo apt-get install mysql-server mysql-client phpmyadmin
mysql root password, confirm
During the installation of PHPMyAdmin you will be asked which web server is installed. Choose lighttpd.
A message will appear asking whether you want to create a dummy database. As the message states, if you know what you are going to be using the database server for or a database is already configured then you can answer no but if you are just experimenting then you can answer yes.
I recommend answering yes to this. It doesn’t do any harm.
code block test
This first post on my guide to hacking the TP-Link WDR-4300 shows you how to open the case.
Start by flipping the unit over so the top is laying face down. In the four corners your will see Philips head screws, start by removing these.
After you've done this flip the unit back over again and have the ports facing you.
Unscrew each antenna from it's lowest part in a clockwise motion.
Each antenna connector is held in by an outer nut, I used a pair of long nose pliers to loosen them half a turn then the rest was easily done by hand.
NOTE: Behind the nut is also a washer which so be careful you don't lose it.
After you have removed all the nuts and washers you simply push each connector in towards the centre of the case and they pop out.
Removing the lid of the router is hard to photograph so i'll try my best to explain. Flipping it back upside down again and looking at it from the bottom you will see a darker black outline that runs all the way round, this bit is actually part of the top of the case which clicks in the the bottom half. The idea is to get something thin enough between the dark black part and the lighter part, a thin flat screwdriver head/finger nails whatever you have handy. Then it's a matter of prying the top section away, I found I had to be quote forceful to get them apart.
After doing that you should hopefully be left with something like this.
When my linksys arrived it was already running a non stock firmware Tomato Version 1.27vpn3.6.4b664ba6 now as a previous user of dd-wrt I decided I would go back to that. First off it's a bad idea to go from one non stock f/w to another, stock to non stock gives you the best chance of an upgrade without bricking.
So I followed this procedure
Hard Reset (aka 30/30/30 reset):
The following procedure will clear out the NVRAM and set dd-wrt back to default values:
- With the unit powered on, press and hold the reset button on back of unit for 30 seconds
- Without releasing the reset button, unplug the unit and hold reset for another 30 seconds
- Plug the unit back in STILL holding the reset button a final 30 seconds
I downgraded back to stock WRT54GSv3_4.71.4.001_fw did the 30/30/30 again then upgraded to dd-wrt.v24_mini_generic however I found it didn't had support for SD cards in it which is a future mod I have planned so again I did a 30/30/30 and downgraded back to stock before reupgrading to dd-wrt.v24_std_generic
One of the first things I did was enable SSHD via the 'services' tab however when I clicked apply setting my browser was forwarded to a blank white screen @ http://192.168.1.1/applyuser.cgi I tried the same again in a different browser and it worked fine, it may have been a remnants of an old session cookie or something.
Soldering/de soldering equipment
1x 10 way header ie from ebay or single a strip and cut your own from maplin
The WRT54G has two serial ports you can access via the 10 pin JP1 header which is found near the front of the router board next to the lights. I ordered some 2×5 10 way headers from ebay.
Here is a picture of where JP2 is, it's the 10 way one on the right the one on the left is a 12 way port used for JTAG which i'll cover later.
The holes in mine weren't pre soldered but i've seen others that have been so if they are you'll need to remove it first. It's then a case of inserting the header with the shortest pins exiting the bottom of the board and then soldering each one.
and how it looks from the top
Well my Pi turned up from Farnell today. More info to follow.
Well my Rush Evo turned up on Thursday, honestly I was like a kid at Christmas ha.
Lots of goodies
Got some Byron GEN2 25% fuel and got it running, just need to take it to an open space and tune it. First thing i’m going to do is dump the pullstart and fit a rotastart to it.
I’ve won a cheapish HPI Nitro Evo Rush 2WD stadium truck on ebay. I chose this model because it has the easily tuneable Nitro Star T-15 engine, plus it comes with lots of extra bits including a rotastart (even though I already have one). Spares and Hop-ups for both are readily available via auction sites or online hobby shops.
I was thinking about the MT2 but couldn’t find any good examples and apart from some body strength the only difference is that its 4WD. The rush is also easier to repair due to it being less complex.
Common faults seem to be the clutch slipper pads exploding and rubbish rear shocks which cause the car to bottom out over jumps.
Well it’s been some time since i’ve tinkered with RC models. I used to race electric buggies when I was in high school then didn’t really touch them until I got a HPI Super Nitro Rally about 6/7 years ago.
I’ve since sold it because it was nothing but grief as it never ran right. Ive decided to go back to basics and get a stadium truck so I can re-learn everything and then see where it goes from there.